Nutrient supply for own-root roses – feeding – PharmaRosa®

Nutrition: timing, dosage, results

For roses, a good feeding programme is all about timing: a starter feed in spring, a top-up between flushes, then a potassium-focused feed at the end of summer and a nitrogen stop. Here you’ll find CRF and liquid protocols with indicative doses (worked in under the mulch), typical problem signs (overfeeding, deficiency symptoms), and a separate section for pots and public plantings. Do you tend to overdo the feed, or are you more worried you’re not giving enough?

Quick principles

  • Basic rule: feed on moist soil, then water it in.
  • Season starter: spring CRF (3–4 months); top-up after the first main flush.
  • End of summer: K-focused feed; no N after mid-August.
  • Ring: spread fertiliser in a ring 30–40 cm out from the base, not right up against the stem.
  • Mulch: fertiliser should go under the mulch – for more even release.

Own-root roses – good ability to regenerate; excess N gives lush but weak tissue.

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Principles & materials

  • CRF (controlled-release): 15-9-12 (+Mg+micro) or 16-8-12 for spring; for summer 10-7-20 / 12-8-16.
  • Liquid feed: rose fertiliser during the season (every 2–4 weeks) – ideal for quick correction.
  • Organic: compost, worm castings, seaweed extract, biochar/zeolite – to improve soil structure and buffering.

Because nutrient uptake depends on pH, test regularly: Soil & pH.

Skip to timing →

Timing

  • Spring: from bud swell, work a starter CRF into the soil.
  • After the first main flush: top-up (CRF or liquid).
  • End of summer: K-focused feed (helps wood to ripen).
  • Autumn: no nitrogen – it induces frost-sensitive soft shoots.

The “last nitrogen” cut-off is typically between 10–15 August, depending on your climate zone.

Skip to CRF dosage →

Dosage – CRF (slow-release)

Type Indicative dose / plant Notes
Mini / Patio 15–25 g In pots, better mixed into the compost
Hybrid tea / Floribunda 30–50 g Scatter in a ring, work in shallowly
Shrub / English 40–70 g Bigger shrub = higher dose
Groundcover 25–40 g Spread evenly over the surface
Climbing / Rambling 50–80 g Aim at the root zone at the base of the support
  • Method: fertiliser should go under the mulch; work in shallowly to 5–8 cm deep, then water in.
  • Soil moisture: don’t apply to dry soil – water first.

Skip to liquid feeds →

Dosage – liquid

  • Frequency: every 2–4 weeks during the season; reduce in heatwaves.
  • To the soil: always apply to pre-moistened soil (better uptake).
  • Rate: follow the product label; in containers, use a weaker solution.

Combined with mulch you get more even water and nutrient management: Mulching.

Skip to organic supplements →

Organic supplements

  • Compost: 2–3 cm layer under the mulch; improves structure and soil life.
  • Worm castings: rich microflora; good at planting time and lightly worked into the surface.
  • Seaweed extract: improves stress tolerance (after heat/drought).
  • Biochar / zeolite: improves buffering, holds water and nutrients (use in small amounts).

pH dependence and dosages: Soil & pH.

Skip to the pots/terrace section →

Pots / terrace

  • CRF in the mix: 2–5 g/L of compost (applied gradually), refresh the top 5–8 cm each year.
  • Liquid feed: weaker solution but more often; don’t leave water standing in the saucer.
  • Growing medium: open, airy mix (soil + compost + perlite/pumice); pH changes faster → test more often.

Positioning: Pots / terrace • Watering: Watering.

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Public and green spaces

  • Protocol: spring CRF worked in, summer K top-up; liquid feed only where needed.
  • Compost: 2–3 cm under the mulch once a year; apply uniformly across the bed/area.
  • Operations: check soil moisture before mechanical application; water in via irrigation system.

Positioning: Public and green spaces.

Skip to signs & problems →

Signs & troubleshooting

  • Chlorosis (yellow leaves, green veins): iron deficiency / high pH → acidify, add iron.
  • Thin shoots, very dark green leaves: too much N → reduce, switch to K-focused feed.
  • Scorched leaf edges: overfeeding / dry medium → heavy watering, temporary break from feeding.
  • Poor growth despite good watering: lack of organic matter → add compost.

Always feed on moist soil; avoid application during heatwaves and in full, scorching sun.

Skip to tools →

Tools you’ll need

  • CRF rose fertiliser
  • Liquid rose fertiliser
  • Compost
  • Worm castings
  • Biochar / zeolite
  • Watering can / Hose

FAQ

Can I fertilise before rain?
Yes, before moderate rainfall it’s useful; avoid before storms as it can wash out.
Which is better: CRF or liquid feed?
They do different jobs: CRF provides the basic supply, liquid feed is for quick correction. Together they give an even, consistent result.
When should I start again in spring?
Around bud swell (according to your local weather), then top up after the first main flush.

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